The Last Emperor


Went to see Valentino: The Last Emperor over the weekend. My ability to enjoy a documentary on a fashion designer is probably higher than most, but I would offer that it was actually a good film in its own right. My expectations were incredibly low going into it, given how horrible Lagerfeld Confidential was. But along with the glamorous air kisses and sycophants were more interesting stories. Foremost is the partnership of Valentino and Giancarlo Giammetti. Business and romantic partners for decades, much of the movie is devoted to the way in which their collaboration catapulted Valentino's name into the stratosphere, thereby enabling the purchases of houses in Rome, Paris, Gstaad, etc. Although their relationship is never overtly affectionate on camera, their interaction is touching, and hints at the deep bond between them.

You also get a window into the evolution of the economics of fashion. There is particular focus on the conflict between the large moneyed conglomerates that have invested in fashion houses over the last decade, and the methods and idiosyncrasies of an established fashion house like Valentino's. The businessmen want items that will sell. Can't Valentino make more iconic accessories to sell alongside his unaffordable couture dresses? On the one hand, you have a designer who's creative whimsy has created the very foundation of the valuable brand. On the other hand, a profit-driven investor doesn't want to indulge random thoughts and associations - that investor wants proven results.

As Valentino is one of the last houses that continues to do haute couture, you also get a glimpse into his atelier, where amazing hand-craft and talent pour into the construction of wearable art. Unfortunately, it also highlights the reality that this industry really can't survive for much longer. With only a handful of customers around the globe, and an even smaller number of people trained in the practice, it seems destined to follow the path of remote inuit dialects and free drinks on airlines.